Discovering the Pahi
This endemic Marquesan bird is only to be found on the island of Tahuata; it seems to have disappeared from Hiva Oa sometime ago.
To prepare the mission, Anne contacted members of the SDR on Tahuata and Hiva Oa in order to gather information about the island. They were overjoyed at being able to take an active part in the mission. They volunteered to help with logistics and Lucien of the SDR of Tahuata, suggested carrying out a survey with the local population in order to locate the pahi ( Marquesan name for this kingfisher)
On the first day, with Louis as a guide, Anne is chown the stump of a tree. The day before a hunter was resting in the shade there after a long trek. When he lit a cigarette, he was attacked by two pahi. There was nothing for it but to sit down and wait for the fierce birds to return, a good idea that became practically unpleasant because of the invasion of ants from a nearby anthill. After a two hour struggle with the insects, the two birds came back at last.At first sight they look like bandits, white with blue wings and a mask over their eyes as though to prevent recognition in case of arrest. They seemed unperturbed about our presence. Is that a smile in the corner of their beak? They go about their business visiting their nest, staring into each other’s eyes, flirting. . . The nest is a hollowed out stump of a dead tree. The nest belonging to our two avengers is situated 30cm from the ground. Anne decides to come back to see the couple before leaving the island.
We rapidly realise that research on these birds cannot be carried out without the help of the local population. In fact their territory is extensive and they prefer building their nests on the hillsides. We have to climb these hillsides, number the dead trees and find out if they contain nests. We then check for activity.
The next few days are something of a treasure hunt. The locals tell us where the birds are and we check on the information. We may look heavenwards, but our heads are not in the clouds. To seek out the masked bandits, we do not hesitate to visit long unexplored areas.
On the beaches of Tahuata, Anne discovers the nonos are less virulent than at Terre Déserte on Nuku Hiva; even so they bite and itch On our way to Vaitahu, we stop at a fa’apu. We have been told of a couple of pahi coming and going out of a tree trunk so we decide to observe their antics. Obviously the best observation seat is already occupied by the ants, but nevertheless we settle down with our binoculars and camera to await their arrival. We do not have to wait long before spying a masked bandit peeping out of his nest. As soon as he disappears, his companion arrives. There is one egg in the nest.
The mission in Tahuata has been a big success; Marquesan kingfishers are to be found in most areas of the island. There are quite a number of them as not one day went by without our discovering a new one. Most important is that the local population is conscious that this bird that is ever present in their daily lives, is a rare animal and that they are its last keepers.
Anne Gouni
translated by Anne Rocca
